Slovenia: Small Country, Serious Sights
The road through the Logar Valley
General tips
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Rent a car for maximum flexibility if you are exploring outside of Ljubljana. We rented a car with Free2Rent.SI through economybookings.com and picked up the car at the Ljubljana train station. We paid $100.13 USD for a 7 day rental.
Download the FlixBus app if you are traveling between Ljubljana and another European city.
You can find more information here on bus tickets from Ljubljana bus station to Bled. If you are unable to buy tickets online, you can purchase them directly at the station or with the bus driver.
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Kranjska klobasa (Carniolan sausage) - pork sausage named after the former Austro-Hungarian province of Carniola. Fatty yet crispy with the skin still on, a must try from Klobasarna if you’re in Ljubljana.
Štruklji - rolled dumplings dating back to the 16th century; can be sweet or savory.
Bled Cream Cake (kremna rezina/kremšnita) - layered puff pastry, custard, and whipped cream. Light and not overly rich, a delicious treat paired nicely with a coffee in the afternoon.
Borovnica - best if homemade. We tried this blueberry-steeped brandy at our homestay in the Logar Valley. Strong yet sweet, a dangerous and drinkable shot.
Mlekomat machines - fresh raw milk vending machines. Local dairy farms deliver their daily products to machines all over Slovenia. Mlekomats often have counterpart machines selling empty bottles for you to fill with raw milk. You can also bring your own. You may also find machines that sell a local farm’s dairy products (cheese, yogurts, etc).
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Don’t skip Ljubljana. We’ve talked to so many people heading to Slovenia, and while nature is top priority, we fell in love with this charming city.
Have a few euro coins or cash for farmer’s markets and mlekomat machines, but credit cards are widely accepted.
Lake Bled is crowded, even when we went in the shoulder season of May 2025. Either hit the lake early or stay somewhere else nearby.
Itinerary
Our Slovenian road trip itinerary
Ljubljana - 3 nights
Logar Valley - 2 nights
Lake Bohinj/Bled - 3 nights
Soča Valley - 2 nights
Recommended Slovenia road trip itinerary
Ljubljana - 3 nights
Logar Valley - 1 nights
Lake Bohinj/Bled - 3 nights
Soča Valley - 1 nights
Ljubljana
3 NIGHTS · MAY 19, MAY 21, 2025
How we got to Ljubljana
We were coming in from Rijeka, Croatia and took a 2.5 hour bus on FlixBus.
Where to stay in Ljubljana
We stayed in a gorgeous Airbnb in the Kolezija neighborhood, around 2km/1.2 miles away from the city center. We loved this neighborhood and the Airbnb was close to a bus stop. We found the public transportation system very easy to navigate but we could also easily walk to the city. If you want to stay closer to the city, the Occidental Ljubljana looks beautiful and is well located. For a budget option, the Best Western also looked nice and is in a central location.
How to get around Ljubljana
The bus system was easy to navigate with the help of Google Maps. You could get a transportation card but we didn’t think it was worth the hassle. With a transportation card, you get 90 minutes of unlimited bus access after tapping in. With the credit card, you need to tap and pay every time (~$2 USD) you want to use the bus, regardless of timing. Once we were in the city, Ljubljana has sections closed off just for pedestrians so everything you’ll want to see is accessible via the shoelace express. If you have mobility issues, call the local Kavalirs (Gentle Helpers). The Kavalirs are electric-powered golf carts that are free city center public transportation for the elderly and mobility-impaired. You can wave the car down or call a ride with your phone (Telephone orders: +386 (0)31 666 331, +386 (0)31 666 332)
What to do in Ljubljana
Face to face with one of Ljubljana’s dragons
Read up on Jože Plečnik and walk around the town center. Plečnik reshaped Ljubljana between World War I and World War II, centering his designs on serving modern man’s needs. The town consists of several public spaces (squares, parks, streets, promenades, bridges) and public institutions (libraries, churches, markets) that were neatly integrated into the pre-existing city’s foundations. His human-first approach is felt strongly through the city as you walk around and enjoy its sights and sounds.
The Ljubljana Tourist information offers free walking tours, 365 days of the year. Sign up or read more about the tour here. We wanted to explore at our own pace so opted for the Rick Steves walking tour which you can find in his Croatia/Slovenia book.
Stroll through Tivoli Park and marvel at its manicured lawns as you walk towards the Contemporary History Museum of Slovenia. The museum guides you through an extensive overview of Slovenia’s history including recreated family homes and displays of communist-era toys and artifacts. The museum spouted our new favorite fun fact: Slovenia was responsible for 90% of Yugoslavia’s economy and because of this, it was well set up when it gained independence in the 90s. After some further digging, the museum may have been exaggerating some facts! Slovenia was responsible for around 1/5th of the Yugoslavian economy which is still very impressive given that it was one-thirteenth of the total population. Take some of the grandiose facts with a grain of salt and you’ll still have an enjoyable time learning about the country’s history.
We skipped this, but next time…
AKC Metelkova - we did walk around the area but didn’t pop inside any of the buildings or stick around long enough to say we truly did this. If you’re familiar with Christiania in Copenhagen, Metelkova felt like a smaller version of the grunge/artist/free spirited city.
Slovene Ethnographic Museum - near AKC Metelkova, museum focused on the traditional culture as well as mass and pop culture in Slovenia and the diaspora. While we focused on political history by visiting the Contemporary History Museum, we wish we had come here as well.
Plečnik House - we were not familiar with Plečnik’s work until we walked around Ljubljana and saw his work showcased everywhere. If you’re interested in architecture and the man behind the city, this would be a good add to your trip.
Inside Ljubljana Castle - Rick Steves said this was skippable and we follow the gospel of Steve closely. Decide whether it’s worth your time with more information here. We did hike up to the castle and enjoyed touring the grounds.
Where to eat in Ljubljana
Jota and sausage from Klobasarna, lunch that fuels a whole day of walking
Figovec - our favorite Slovenian restaurant. We arrived on the earlier side and had to wait a few minutes for a table. We recommend you make a reservation or get there before the dinner rush. Try the whimsical “Rusalka” - cocktails named after water fairies from Slavic folklore who left their rivers each summer to dance in the forest.
Klobasarna - fast food sausages and stew, delicious and hearty for an easy lunch while touring the city center.
Moji Struklji Slovenije - we tried our first struklji here and they are massive so we recommend splitting two. We shared the in-season asparagus and bacon dumpling and followed it with the rich chocolate and peanut butter dumpling. Enjoy sitting outside in the courtyard with a view of Saint Nicholas’ Cathedral.
Cafetino - The smell of roasting beans stopped us in our tracks and we had a lovely reprieve from the sun and touring in Cafetino.
Tri Marije Coffee Trailer - we stopped by the trailer for an americano and enjoyed sipping this while walking around the nearby farmer’s market.
Zaika - we didn’t expect to have some of the best Indian food we’ve ever eaten in Slovenia but here we are, strongly recommending Zaika. He’s a one-man show cooking up and running this small restaurant in the hippest area of town. Portions are generous.
Logar Valley
2 NIGHT · MAY 21 - 23, 2025
How to get to the Logar Valley
While you could get to the Logar Valley by bus, we strongly recommend you rent a car to properly explore the area. Once you’re in the valley, you’ll need a car to access different hikes and restaurants.
Where to stay in the Logar Valley
We stayed at a tourist farm, Turistična kmetija Gradišnik. Tourist farms are family-run hotels on working farms. By becoming hotels, many families supplement their income while preserving their land and way of life. The room was quiet and clean, breakfast included products made from the farm like sausages and jams. We were also welcomed into the hotel with a tasting of Borovnica, blueberry-steeped brandy. This tourist farm did not offer dinner so something to keep in mind if you don’t want to leave the property for meals. We recommend staying at a tourist farm but if you’re looking for a more traditional hotel experience: Hotel Plesnik looked gorgeous. The hotel is at the foot of the valley where you’ll spend most of your day hiking and exploring. Most restaurants are also in the valley so if you’re not eating at the hotel, you’ll save yourself the drive.
What to do in the Logar Valley
We prioritized hiking but a big reason to visit here is to relax and enjoy the views!
Our new cow friend in the Valley!
Hikes we did:
Rinka Waterfall (Slap Rinka) - the main walk most folks will do in the valley. If you start at the foot of the valley, it’s roughly 7km (4.3 miles) but most people (including us) drove to the start of the entrance and it’s around a 20 minute walk from there.
Klemenčeva Jama hut - the total hike is 4.02km (2.5 miles) but 422.7 meters (1,387 ft) elevation gain which felt difficult. It took us around two hours to complete but this hike also felt considerably harder because we had our backpacks on, training for the Dolomites hut-to-hut hike that we would do later on. The trail was quiet and the hut at the top of the mountain was closed, it was probably too early in the season. Without the backpack and if the hut had been open for refreshments, this would’ve been an excellent hike.
Robanov Kot - the full hike is 8.2km (5.1 miles), but we were hit with bad weather and probably only did a mile here. We were also a little unsure of the trail because this walks adjacent to farm property and there was not another soul around. We wouldn’t recommend the full hike unless you’ve already explored the rest of the valley and you’re itching for more.
Where to eat in the Logar Valley
Gostilna Zadružnik - this was the only option open when we were driving from the city to our tourist farm. We ate the schnitzel and liked it enough, the portions were huge so consider sharing if you’re not too hungry.
House Ojstrica - we loved our lunch here so came back for dinner (options are also limited), but we thought this place was excellent. Service was attentive, food portions were generous, and the menu was extensive, allowing us to try multiple Slovenian dishes throughout our meals.
Lake Bled &
Lake Bohinj
3 NIGHTS · MAY 23 – MAY 26, 2025
How to get to Lake Bled / Lake Bohinj
If you’re short on time and want to see some of Slovenia, definitely take a bus out to Bled. You can find more information here on bus tickets from Ljubljana bus station to Bled. If you are unable to buy tickets online, you can purchase them directly at the station or with the bus driver.
We drove from the Logar Valley to Bled, but opted to stay in an Airbnb near Bohinj. We did have a hard time finding a place to park around the lake when we explored Bled in the afternoon due to the amount of tourists also visiting the area. It was much easier to find parking early the next morning when we returned.
Where to stay - Lake Bled or Lake Bohinj?
For cheaper housing, we stayed a 5-minute drive from Lake Bohinj in a town called Stara Fuzina. Our Airbnb was great albeit small. We didn’t need much and spent most of the days exploring so this wasn’t a deal breaker for us. We would recommend our Airbnb if you're on a budget and don’t need a lot of space.
Staying in Lake Bled is better if you are exploring by bus. We did not explore the area of Bled near the bus station so we can’t recommend any hotels that are walking distance from the bus stop.
If we were not on a budget, we would have opted to stay in Hotel Bohinj. The location is fantastic, at the foot of the lake, and the amenities showcased online look amazing as well.
What to do in Lake Bled & Lake Bohinj
Casual morning paraglide off a mountain over Lake Bohinj
If you’re driving from Ljubljana to Bled, consider visiting Radovljica first:
On our drive to Lake Bled, we stopped by Climbing Ranch. The climbing gym was built by 2016 World Cup climbing champion Domen Škofic. It’s a beautiful rock climbing facility that has interesting walls for all skill levels.
We didn’t do this but we wish we had visited the Museum of Apiculture. Slovenia has a beautiful tradition of hand-painting panels (panjske končnice) on the frontsof beehives. This tradition started partly so bees could find their way home, partly to ward off bad luck, and partly just as folk art depicting village life, religious scenes, and local legend. We saw these painted panels scattered throughout the country, and going to the museum likely would’ve given us a deeper appreciation of this lovely tradition.
Lake Bled
Enjoy a traditional pletna boat ride to Bled Island (Blejski otok). We started our Pletna boat ride here. There are no motorized boats allowed in the lake so we opted to start our boat ride closer to the island. The ride to the island took around 20-30 minutes. Other start points can take up to an hour or so. The boats are smooth and slow. You’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and snap photos of the gorgeous views. We didn’t go into the museum on the island but it was a pretty island to explore and we did try the traditional potica cake in the cafe.
An absolute must-do: the Lake Bled hike. If you’re short on time and it’s a sunny day, skip the boat ride and opt for the hike instead. You’ll get an incredible view of the entire lake with Blejski otok looking gorgeous in the middle of the sparkling blue lake. Don’t make our mistakes and try to trailblaze. We didn’t start at the trailhead and got terribly lost, hiking way more than we had expected so please follow the signs because it’s really easy and well-marked! We started the hike around 8 am and we were some of the first people up at the top. When we started heading down at around 10 am, a lot of other tourists were coming up the trail.
Lake Bohinj
We spent the bulk of our time exploring different trails around Bohinj. These were our two favorites that we recommend:
Vogar Viewpoint hike - one of our favorite hikes we’ve done because of the paraglider’s jump off point. We almost missed it on our hike up but there’s a fork on the left with a viewpoint of the lake and that section is where the paragliders take off. We stayed there for an hour or so watching the paragliders soaring, one of the coolest things we’ve seen.
Mostnica Gorge hike - the trailhead was walking distance from our Airbnb and we highly recommend the trail. We visited the gorge in the afternoon and it was very quiet. You follow the turquoise river on a well-marked path deep into the forest. If fairies existed, they most certainly would live here.
Soča Valley
2 NIGHTS · MAY 26-28, 2025
How to get to Soča Valley
Take the long way to the valley via the Vršič Pass, one of Slovenia’s most beautiful drives with lookout points and historical stops along the way. Rick Steves has a fun and informative driving tour that we referenced throughout the pass. Highlights included the Russian Chapel, rock formations that look like faces, and a delicious espresso at the top of the pass.
Don’t make our mistakes: There was some construction happening when we went, so unfortunately we couldn’t finish the full pass. Make sure to double check the government website on the latest with the pass as they’re working on improving traffic flow and protecting the alpine region. As the pass was closed when we visited, we had to cross into Italy to make it to Kobarid and that was a really fun detour. If for any reason you also have to detour to Italy to make it to Kobarid, we highly recommend a stop for pasta at Bar Trattoria Miramonti.
Where to stay in the Soča Valley
We stayed in the town of Kobarid to explore the region. There aren’t many options in Kobarid but the good news is that location won’t be an issue no matter where you are. The town is small and you’ll be able to walk everywhere.
We stayed at Apartments Pri nas and think the apartments could be hit or miss depending on which room they place you in. Some of the rooms showcased online look really beautiful and while our room was seemingly beautiful, it was quite dusty. One of the major roads is right next to the apartments so you don’t have great separation from traffic. We lived next to a highway in a previous life so the noise didn’t bother us but the dust definitely did.
We didn’t stay at either of these places but if you don’t mind staying in a hostel, Hostel Kobarid looked nice and well located. From the outside, Hotel Hvala also looked satisfactory.
What to do in Soča Valley
Slap Kozjak in the Soča Valley
Kobarid Museum - if you’re interested in WW1, definitely stop by the Kobarid Museum. Slovenia, specifically the land near the Soča River, was one of the most brutal fronts of the war. Slovenian territory was part of Austria-Hungary, fighting against their direct neighbors across the mountains in Italy. Hemingway set the backdrop of A Farewell to Arms here as he was serving as an ambulance driver near the front. Yet outside of Hemingway, the front isn’t as well known as the Western Front. This museum is a sobering reminder that some of the most gruesome fights happened here.
Slap Kozjak - if you’re not sick of gorgeous gorges yet, make the trek over to Slap Kozjak. If it’s recently rained, do be aware that the walk will be extremely slippery. We saw a few folks seriously struggling to navigate the end of the hike near the waterfall so make sure you have appropriate footwear and gear. There is a ticket to enter but it’s worth it and the money is going into preserving the area.
A trip to Soča Valley and Kobarid wouldn’t be complete without stopping to admire the river. I don’t think we’ve ever seen water that light blue before. It was too cold and rainy for us to go river rafting but we had Nature’s Way Bovec - Rafting & Canyoning marked down as a potential tour guide if you’re interested in going.
Where to eat around Soča Valley
Slovenia’s first and also 3 starred Michelin restaurant, Hiša Franko, is a 3-minute drive from Kobarid. Watch Ana Roš’ Chef’s Table episode on Netflix (Season 2, Episode 5) before you go.
We ate at the much cheaper and more accessible sister restaurant in Kobarid, Hiša Polonka. Book ahead or be prepared to wait for a table. There are not a lot of other food options in the city so we highly recommend eating here.
If you had to do Slovenia again... what would you do differently?
We would consider skipping Kobarid but that may be because we had bad weather. Exploring Piran and Trieste would have been a nice change of pace if you’re looking to infuse some Italian tastes into your Slovenian adventure.
Exploring more of Triglav or Grintovec. Again, we visited during a time when the weather was going to be dicey (May), and didn’t prioritize bigger hiking. A friend recently visited Jezersko near Austria and recommended the area for hiking and via ferrata.
