Kazakhstan: Central Asia’s Great Outdoors
Charyn Canyon
General tips
-
If you’re staying in Almaty, download Yandex Go (Central Asia’s Uber).
If you’re exploring outside of a city - rent a car, book a guide or hitchhike - public transportation between the biggest tourist attractions are nonexistent as of 2026.
Car rental company we used here. Caravanistan has a thorough guide on driving in Kazakhstan that we read up on here.
Note: our car did not allow us to drive into Altyn-Emel National Park or Kaindy Lake and we are so glad we did not break that rule. More on that later below.
-
Qurt - dried salty balls of fermented milk, created out of necessity by the nomadic people to preserve perishable milk during long journeys
Beshbarmak - the national dish, boiled horse meat or mutton on flat noodles. If you stay at guest houses where meals are included, you’ll likely have the opportunity to try horse.
Baursak - deep fried dough balls, you’ll find them at most tables at guest houses.
Lagman - hand-pulled noodles with lamb or beef and veggies.
Kumys - fermented mare’s milk, if you go to Navat - one of our recommended restaurants, they give you a complimentary shot to try!
Shubat - fermented camel’s milk.
-
Yandex Go
Yandex Maps
If you can get a Kazakh number, locals also recommend 2GIS
Google Translate - have Russian and Kazakh downloaded
-
Almaty is predominantly Russian speaking. Outside of the city, you’ll hear far more Kazakh.
Want to go camping in Kazakhstan but don’t have any equipment? Rent from GoTourist in Almaty. We messaged them on WhatsApp and they sent us a sheet with all of the gear available & rental prices. The store is 24/7 so you can coordinate to browse and pick up whenever works best for you. According to other bloggers, you can also rent basic equipment (tent, mat) at the Charyn Canyon’s visitor center. We opted for GoTourist as we wanted to rent cooking equipment.
Magnum Super for your grocery store needs. This is the one we stopped by with a parking garage. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
If you’re unsure about doing this trip yourself, we met some excellent guides in Kazakhstan along the way and we’re happy to recommend them if you want to reach out to us on instagram for more info @ellisontravels
-
Dark Shadows: Inside the Secret World of Kazakhstan by Joanna Lillis. The first section catches you up on the latest political drama in Kazakhstan but the real draw for me was the middle section, covering Kazakhstan’s nomadic history and tumultuous relationship with Russia. The book is a strong entry point into Kazakhstan’s history and current political climate but it left me wanting more.
The Day Lasts More Than a Hundred Years by Chinghiz Aitmatov. Chinghiz is a Kyrgyz author but the book is set on the steppes of Kazakhstan. Beautiful novel about a Kazakh man reflecting on his life while the world around him is rapidly changing.
Itinerary
Our Kazakhstan roadtrip itinerary
Day 1: Almaty
Day 2: Charyn Canyon
Day 3: Kolsai Lakes
Day 4-6: Saty
Day 7-8: Altyn Emel
Day 9-10: Almaty
Day 11: fly out to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
Recommended Kazakhstan itinerary
Day 1-3: Almaty
Day 4-5: Altyn-Emel
Day 6: Charyn Canyon (1N or stop on the way to Saty)
Day 7-8: Saty (2N)
Day 9: fly out from Almaty or travel to Issyk-Kul (Kyrgyzstan) from Saty.
Almaty
4 NIGHTS · MAY 7, MAY 14-17, 2026
How to get to Almaty
Easy to order a Yandex Go at Almaty Airport arrivals
Where to stay in Almaty
We stayed at two accommodations: Holiday Inn Almaty (booked with Chase points), Meridian Apartments
Holiday Inn Almaty was close to where our rental car pick up was, the room was decent but I wouldn’t recommend otherwise. The breakfast was not included in our rate and we did not find quick breakfast options around the hotel. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Meridian Apartments was an apartment booking made via Booking.com. After spending months in a variety of hotels and hostels, the apartment was a nice switch up and the neighborhood felt like a good mix of residential and commercial. There is a giant mall across the street with an excellent supermarket. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Next time: YURTA Boutique Hotel, if we weren’t traveling on a mid-tier budget, I would have booked YURTA. After exploring Almaty, I really loved the nearby neighborhood - the streets are lined with coffee shops and with a handful of universities nearby, the area felt young and lively. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
What to do in Almaty
Climbing the stairs at Almaty Museum of Modern Art
Almaty Museum of Art - a few hours well spent, the art museum showcases the best of Kazakhstan’s artists alongside a collection of international artists. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture - community oriented art space, free exhibitions with eager staff members excited to share more about the exhibitions they are hosting. Often hosts free concert series as well and has a cute coffee shop inside. If you pop by, check out St. Nicholas Cathedral nearby. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Ascension Cathedral - Built in the 1900s, the cathedral feels like a portal to Imperial Russia with its vivid colors and ornate woodwork. The cathedral provides scarfs for head or knee coverage inside. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Green Bazaar - the most raw meat I’ve ever seen hanging in an open market, the butcher section is not for the faint of heart. Smiling sales men will wave you over to try their products but get upset if you don’t make a purchase. Google Maps / Yandex Maps.
Shopping in Almaty
qazaq republic - if you’re the type of person who can name your favorite font, you’ll love shopping at QR. The t-shirts and sweaters feature clean and well designed logos that will stand out from any other souvenir you’ll find. I bought a new water bottle here (tragically lost mine at an airport shuffle) and feel very stylish toting my new one around. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Zolotoye Yabloko - the most impressive cosmetics store I’ve seen and I spent many hours perusing every Olive Young I saw in South Korea. The store has Korean skincare products I haven’t seen anywhere outside of Seoul. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
We skipped this, but next time…
Arba Wine - In the 1980s, Soviet Era anti-alcohol crusaders destroyed around 70% of Kazakhstan’s vineyards. Kazakhstan’s former minister of revenue revitalized a Soviet Era vineyard with the help of Mario Fregoni, professor of Viticulture at the Catholic University of Piacenza. They were shocked to find some vines were not only still alive but thriving! You can taste test at their store in Almaty or take a day trip to their vineyard in Assa Valley
Store: Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Vineyards: Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Booking a tour with Walking Almaty. Redditors rave about Walking Almaty tours but we opted to DIY as the tours can be upwards of $50-$60 USD. Great value if you’re not trying to extend your budget for 13+ months of travel.
Where to eat in Almaty
Spices for sale at the Green Bazaar
Navat - Locals and tourists alike head to Navat for their extensive but high quality menu. You’ll be greeted by a shot of mare’s milk - you’ll regret not trying it. Navats are ubiquitous so find the closest one near your accommodation. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Jump-in-Goat - one of many cozy coffee shops in leafy Almaty. Delicious cold brew that took us back to our Brooklyn apartment paired nicely with bites of homemade Syrniki (cottage cheese pancakes). Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Bella Ciao - if you’re like us and you’ve been on the road for a bit, you may want a change of flavor profile. We thoroughly enjoyed the pizza here and yes, we’re from New York so we know a thing or two about good pizza. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Hopers Bar - we’re on the hunt for local craft beer everywhere we go and Hopers did not disappoint. The IPAs were crisp, food was delicious, and the atmosphere was lively with a multiple group parties going on. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Lanzhou noodles outside Green Bazaar - I cannot find the restaurant on Yandex, 2GIS or Google Maps BUT here is a picture of the gorgeous lanzhou noodles & beef dish we had. If you’re exiting the Green Bazaar and heading towards Zhibek Zholy Ave, in the direction of the Cathedral - the restaurant should be on your right hand side as you’re exiting the central doors of the Bazaar. These are the coordinates according to the photo we snapped: 43.26305° N, 76.95499° E. Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Charyn Canyon
1 NIGHT · MAY 8, 2026
How to get to Charyn Canyon
Camping at the bottom of the canyon
Drive with Yandex Maps or day trip with a tour group from Almaty. Recommended car rental company in Kazakhstan we used here. Caravanistan has a thorough guide on driving in Kazakhstan that we read up on here. You’ll pay an entrance fee before seeing the parking lot at the visitors center.
Note: it’s really worth the night stay and camping in Charyn Canyon, the drive can be upwards of 3-4 hours one way for roughly a 1-3 hour hike pending energy levels. A night stay either camping or within the Eco-park allows for a much more leisurely hike and opportunity to gaze at the night sky with little light pollution.
What to do and how to camp in Charyn Canyon
The stars were immaculate from the bottom of the canyon
Charyn Canyon has two main hikes - one overlooking the canyon and one walking through the canyon to the river. Gradients of sandstone and orange rocks loom overhead, it’s hard not to stop and marvel at how one country can have such varied topography.
From parking at the visitors center, you’ll take the steps down into the canyon and hike to the River Charyn. The hike one way took us around 1.5 hours and was on mostly flat terrain. Save the AllTrails link here. If you only want to hike one way, cars frequently pick up hikers by River Charyn for a fee. They’ll drive you back to the visitor’s center.
We found a nice flat spot next to the river to camp, a few yards away from the covered picnic tables. Facilities are basic (drop toilet). There was no running water when we were there so make sure to BYOWater or bring your preferred filtration system. We use and recommend the Katadyn BeFree 1L.
Where to rent camping equipment in Kazakhstan? We rented from GoTourist in Almaty. According to other bloggers, you can also rent basic equipment (tent, mat) at the Charyn Canyon’s visitor center. We opted for GoTourist as we wanted to rent cooking equipment.
If you don’t want to camp, there is a property you can stay at on site: Pana Unique.
Saty, Kolsai &
Kaindy Lakes
3 NIGHTS · MAY 9 – MAY 12, 2026
How to get to Kolsai Lakes
We drove from Charyn Canyon to Kolsai lakes in about 2.5 hours. You do need to pay an entrance fee and camping fee for the night. It was only a few dollars.
Where to camp in Kolsai Lakes
Our first night we camped at Kolsai and found this a bit confusing… we hiked to the southern shore of Kolsai Lake and didn’t see anyone there so we doubled back. Don’t make our mistakes: you can absolutely camp at the south shore of Kolsai Lake 1 or hike to Kolsai Lake 2 and camp there.
We camped by our car near the river instead. When you’re entering the park with your car, instead of turning right and crossing the river towards the lake, stay left and you’ll likely see local families camping out. You can pull into any site and pitch your tent wherever you’d like. We were here on a Saturday and it was hard to find a spot with so many families gathering together.
Google Maps / Yandex Maps
Our second and third night, we stayed at Kolsai Kazakh Village. Every meal is a family meal, an opportunity to try local dishes you may be too scared to order, and we met wonderful people who were also traveling through Kazakhstan. It rained the two days we stayed there but the cabins were cozy and kept us warm and dry.
Note: we don’t recommend 3 nights in this area if you’re hoping to have a more active vacation. We did a lot of chilling and admin here.
What to do in Saty
A rainy, moody day at Kaindy Lake
Kolsai Lakes recommendations - Yandex Maps
We did the Kolsai Lake short hike here. Starting at the parking lot, it’s an out and back hike towards the south shore of the lake (where the other camping is). You’re rewarded with views of the lake the entire time. You do share the trail with groups riding on horseback so be aware.
If you want to be one with the horse, it’s easy to hire a horse and guide by the parking lot.
Boat ride on the lake! We watched many families enjoying their boat ride from our viewpoint.
Kaindy Lake recommendations - Yandex Maps
The son of our guesthouse owner drove us to Kaindy for a fee because you need a 4x4 car for the road up. It was also pouring buckets when we went so we were happy to not drive. We did see regular sedans parked there but I don’t recommend braving the roads in a low car.
Buckets of rain did not deter us and made the setting feel like we were on the Twilight set. The gushing water was splashing against the metal stairs leading you towards the lake - I was half expecting to slip and for Edward to show up and save me.
We rushed our stay here due to the rain but you could definitely spend a few hours exploring.
Altyn Emel & Basshi
2 NIGHTS · MAY 12-13, 2026
How to get to Altyn Emel National Park
We hit the road again and drove from Saty to Basshi, a 4 hour journey. Stunning flat roads flanked by mountains on the horizon and fields filled with wild horses and sheep.
Note: we have seen this recommended as a day trip from Almaty and we’re not sure how that would be possible. We recommend staying at least one night - you can see the Singing Dunes on the evening you arrive and wake up early the next day to see Altyn-Emel before leaving. The dunes close by 7pm so give yourself enough time.
Where to stay near Altyn Emel National Park
We booked the big guest house and happily had the entire place to ourselves. It’s great for large groups if you’re traveling with friends. The yurts also looked really nice and cozy.
What to do in Altyn Emel National Park
Aktau Mountains in Altyn-Emel National Park
Altyn Emel National Park recommendations
If you do not have a 4x4 car and if you do but you’re not a confident driver, we do not recommend you tackle this road. Within 15 minutes of driving into the national park, we burst a tire. We also saw a flipped car, a stranded bus loaded with tourists, and a family whose car wouldn’t start. I’m convinced the roads are cursed, generations of nomads have done something here to prevent tourists from overrunning the land.
Note: Tours are expensive because the cars driving into the park are built for these difficult roads. Driving doesn’t take as long if you have the proper vehicle - it took us roughly 3 hours to get to the park when others were doing it within an hour.
We rushed the park a bit because we wanted to make it to the Singing Dunes before closing at 7pm.
Singing Dunes recommendations
Getting to the dunes is nowhere near as treacherous as the national park. We made it there in under an hour and probably spent an hour or so exploring. Definitely go around sunset to get a reprieve from the sun but also to enjoy golden hour on the dunes themselves.
Hike up the dune and butt scoot down when you’re ready to leave. Every shift of sand emits a low hum, a hidden choir deep in the sand. We were tempted to hike up again to hear the dunes sing one more time.
As we were exiting the park, we burst a second tire and got stranded near the exit. Luckily the Caravansarai has an emergency number and they came to our rescue with their Steyr-Puch Pinzgauer. This clearly happens often because they were very prepared to save us.
Where to eat near Altyn Emel National Park
Meals are not included at Caravansarai campsite but they have a delicious restaurant onsite or you can use the kitchen facilities in the big house to prepare a meal.
Across the street from Caravansarai is a local bakery. The baker doesn’t speak English but we used Google Translate to communicate and tried her various baked goods. Highly recommend snacks to take to the park or a quick breakfast. Google Maps
